My first attempt at Surfing

Well I woke up at sunrise today and made my way down to the beach, with my surfboard of course.  I attempted to carry my board under one arm while I road my bike, but that was a total and complete fail since my arms are definitely not long enough for that. So I walked about a mile down to the beach, but passed the normal beach that you can go to.  I wanted some privacy.  I did some good morning yoga, and finally stretched out enough that I could touch the ground again.  My hamstrings have been super tight since all that log rolling that we did. After I finished my yoga, I wanted to find a bigger part of the beach so that I could put my towel out without worrying that it would get wet.  A lot of the beaches here have just a little bit of sand before the residential line starts.  So I started walking, and walking, and walking...  I then decided that I would stop wherever another person was surfing so that I wouldn't feel so alone.
Yeah, I didn't want to surf all alone and what if there
were rocks under the water?  I had to make sure I picked a good spot!  So I walked some more, until finally I saw someone else out in the water on a board. Such a vast beach and there were no people in the water!  Where were all the tourists??  I walked for ages, and was tired by the time I finally picked my spot because the sand seemed forever deep.  I went out in the water and it was awesome.  Perfect temperature, but the waves were pretty big.  It took forever for me to get out passed the waves in order to ride one in because they kept knocking me over, and trying to strip me of my swim suit.  The waves are very naughty, let me tell you.
I finally got out, and of course the guy surfing was super hot and good looking.  I made sure to let him know that I totally sucked at surfing so 1 he wouldn't make fun of me and 2 maybe he would help me out.  He grew up on the island and was SUPER good at surfing, but I made sure not to compare my skills to his because I knew I would not even come close. 
I did not get any good tips, but it was super nice in the water.  No, I did not stand up on my board today, but I know I have lots of time to practice and get good at it.  I just wanted to get a good feeling for my board today.  After a while (or what seemed like a while) I was heading back out for another go after riding one in on my belly, and a big wave took me out, flipped me over, and stole all my breath and my bathing suit top.  I decided it was time to go in for a break.  I read some of my book and then started the long walk home... I had walked super far that morning I came to realize.  I was walking back on the road and it was still forever long.  It was totally worth it :)